Biological wasteland….that’s all my brain can think about or see when I see swaths of green grass covering America’s neighborhoods. I think of men competing for the perfect lawn…the time and energy put into the perfect lines and patterns formed from using the premier mowing techniques…. backpack sprayers pouring chemicals into our waterways for bragging rights and macho superiority. For what…oh let me tell you… I can get fired up on this subject! I hate lawns. We spend hours and hours and dump dollar after dollar into a plant that does very little for us in return other than give us pride in our manicured perfection. Lawns are a part of the American suburban culture and they do have some merit (you can walk on them without damaging them, sports use turf which is fun and great exercise), but they don’t deserve nearly as much attention as we tend to give them. If I am being completely honest, I wasn’t looking forward to the Hanover Master Gardener Association class on lawns, but surprisingly I got a lot out of the lecture. Ed Olson, the State Director of the Extension Master Gardener program, did a phenomenal job at helping me understand turf and how to properly care for it. I suspect I will get lots of lawn questions through volunteering at plant clinics and answering calls at the help desk. I am glad that I left the class with a bit more positivity about the subject and packed with tools to help others make more eco-conscious decisions when lawn-scaping.

Before we talk about lawns…

Let’s talk about water quality. Turf can promote water quality if managed correctly. The keywords here are “if managed correctly.” By reading this blog, you will learn ways to manage your lawn correctly, and I hope that you will pass on this information to your neighbors so that together we can protect our most precious resource…water. A few weeks ago, I wrote an entire post on the Chesapeake Bay Watershed so I’m not going to rehash all of that, but if you missed it go read it here. I was really uneducated on this topic, and it is now incredibly fascinating to me. I’ll highlight some quick facts:

How to lawn scape responsibly:

Cover the bare ground. A dense turf protects against soil erosion and nutrient runoff. Bare ground can increase the amount of sediment entering the waterway. The soil is meant to stay where it is. If you have a tough spot in your lawn where grass won’t take such as under a dense tree canopy, plant some natives instead. Plenty of beautiful shade-tolerant plants will happily cover these tricky spots.
Plant the right kind of grass for your area. There are two categories of turf grasses: cool-season grasses and warm-season grasses. Virginia is in a transition area for turf so we can grow both types depending on your needs and wants. Cool-season grasses, like fescue and bluegrass, are what most homeowners plant because they stay green even in the winter. Warm-season grasses, such as Bermuda and Zoysia, are often seen on golf courses and recreation areas. They go dormant and turn brown in the winter. However, neither type grows exceptionally well here which totally makes sense why so many struggle with their lawns.

Initiate SMART lawn care practices:

The following tips will help you have a beautiful and environmentally friendly lawn. Below, I will summarize the Henrico County Extension Office SMART lawns program. This booklet goes into great detail if you’d like to further explore this topic.

Know your SOIL through a soil test.

A soil test should be conducted every 3 years.
The soil test will give you valuable information about your soil’s nutrient content. The test is inexpensive and will let you know the phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, and other micronutrients in your soil. You can test for organic matter for a minimal upcharge. Soil tests do not measure nitrogen because nitrogen levels can change rapidly in the soil. If you live in Virginia, soil tests can be completed through the Virginia Tech Soil Testing Lab. You can also pick up sample testing boxes and forms at your local extension office. Alternatively, you can use a private lab. WayPoint Analytical is a private company that has locations in many states, including Richmond, VA. I have used both public and private labs. Either is fine. The private lab may get you results faster and I find that their results are easier to read and interpret if you have limited experience.
Soil tests will give you lime and fertilizer application rates. A win for the environment and your budget.

MEASURE to Save Time and Money

Break up your lawn into easy-to-measure shapes
Add each measurement up to get your total lawn square footage
You can do this by physically measuring or by utilizing Google Earth.
Measuring is important because it ensures that you are purchasing and applying the right amount of fertilizer and lime to your yard. Mother Nature and your wallet will thank you.

AERATE those Roots

Relieves soil compactions and/or thatch buildup (thatch isn’t a huge problem in cool season crops)
Allows oxygen, water, and nutrients to reach the root system
Good soil moisture is important. If you have been going through a dry spell, irrigate your lawn for a few days before aerating so you can get good soil contact and cores pulled.
Fall is the best time of year for cool-season turf
Core or hollow-tine aerators are recommended. You can rent these from most big box stores or you can hire a lawn care company to do this work for you.

Be RIGHT about Fertilizer

Understand the label. The three numbers represent the amount of Nitrogen - Phosphorus - and Potassium in the product. If you do not perform a soil test, use a maintenance fertilizer. A maintenance fertilizer will have the middle phosphorus number at zero (0). Do not add phosphorus to your lawn unless your soil test states to do so.
Other types of fertilizers include starter fertilizers that should be used when starting a lawn or after aerating and winterizers. Winterizers generally have more Potassium because this nutrient aids the plants in times of stress.
Fertilizer Application Timing
- Timing 30 days apart Cool Season Grasses
- Timing 30 days apart Warm Season Grasses
How To Appy

Drop vs. Rotary Spreaders both need to be calibrated. Rotary is faster, but not as accurate at applying the fertilizer leading to applications of fertilizer in places like your flower beds or the sidewalk where it is not needed.
Split the pounds/1000 sq. feet in half and run over your lawn twice in a perpendicular fashion to eliminate any possible lawn streaking. This will take more time but will ensure a nice, even application
Fertilizer Calculator

Practice TROUBLE free maintenance

Keep mower blades sharp because the lawn looks better and sharp blades reduce the risk of the spread of disease. Dull Blade Syndrome- tears grass, gives more wounded surface area which opens to more disease. You should sharpen your blades 1-2 times per season.
Measure the mower blade height. It should be 2-3 inches. The proper height matters.
- Why? The science shows that grass shades out weed seeds from germinating.
  - Mower blade set at 1 inch = 42.3 weeds per 100 sq feet
  - Mower blade set at 2 inches = 2.5 weeds per 100 sq feet
  - Mower blade set at 3 inches = .2 weeds per 100 sq feet
- Not only does a higher height allow for fewer weeds, but it also creates a better root base because you aren’t cutting off so much of the plant’s food production source
- Utilize the One-Third Rule:
- Don’t bag your lawn clippings. Leave them on the lawn. If you bag your lawn clippings, don’t send them to the landfill. Instead, make compost with them. The grass clippings automatically give your lawn the vital nitrogen that they need. Meaning you can use less fertilizer.
Watering
- Avoid light and frequent irrigation. Deep soaking is best. You can do this 2-3 times per week
- The turf needs 1 inch of water per week; turn it off for a week if you get 1 inch of rain
- Calibrate your irrigation system
- Water early in the day because there is less wind for moving away and evaporation and less water evaporation from the sun
- You can prob your soil with a 6 in. screwdriver to see if your soil is moist or dry.
Lawn Integrated Pest Management
- Insects
- Diseases
  - Brown patches are most problematic, but fungicides are seldom needed on home lawns. Your extension agent can help you understand the best course of action.
- Weeds. You may need to adjust your tolerance towards them.
  - Identify the weed
  - Determine the best time to treat
  - Determine the most effective product for that weed; sometimes it is better to hire a professional because they have different products available to them and have undergone special training on how to use them than what’s available to the general consumer
  - Virginia Tech Weed Identification Tool- It’s basically a digital dichotomous key that can help you identify the weeds in your yard so you can determine the best control measure for that particular plant

Wooo! 😅 That was a lot of information that I threw your way. As we gear up for lawn care season, I hope that you can refer back to this blog for resources. I know I will be pausing a bit more and making sure that my application rates are correct so that I can help protect our waterways a bit better too. As always, feel free to reach out with any questions you may have. If I don’t know the answer, I can probably connect you with someone who does. I hope you get some dirt under your fingernails today.

Keep Blooming,

Nicole Dillon, Breemar Flower Farm

Master Gardener Training Series: Lawn Scaping Responsibly